• Fashion People

    Understanding Virgil Abloh

    I will be honest, Virgil Abloh falls into that category of multifaceted designers that I did NOT understand initially. Only time and the progressive flattening of the creativity of today were able to make me grasp his vision. A self-described “multihyphenate artist”, Abloh was an architect, DJ, and designer, lent to fashion and art, and within a few years of the launch of his brand Off-White, he became a Midas King that LVMH did not let slip away. Just a couple of weeks ago I was explaining to my students about his debut as creative director of Louis Vuitton’s men’s…

  • Fashion People

    Goodbye Laura!

    Unfortunately Laura Biagiotti, the Queen of cashmere, died. Gracious and delicate woman, I was always struck by the composure she showed in every video interview. Known worldwide for her interpretation of knitwear and white color, I wrote about her it in my very first article for the Vogue Encyclopedia dedicated to fashion designers and the colors which made them famous.

  • Fashion People

    Why Paul Poiret’s autobiography won’t change your life

    Pretentious, Odious, Irritating, Refined, Exaggerated, Triumphalist. The list of adjectives that can describe Paul Poiret does not end here, of course, but I liked the idea of ​​finding a word for each letter of his surname and that all together they could communicate the personality of one of the main protagonists of fashion history. How do I know that Paul Poiret was really so? Simple, I just read “King of Fashion: The Autobiography of Paul Poiret”.

  • Fashion People

    The Gucci-Frida affaire: We all loved each other so much, or maybe not.

    After repeated denials, Patrizio Di Marco and Frida Giannini leave Gucci, but the fashion world doesn’t seem so surprised by the Kering’s notice. There are many reasons for the fall from Paradise, but the latest financial data with the sales decrease of -3.5% and the lower performances recorded since the third quarter of 2009, gave François-Henri Pinault the opportunity to get rid of one of the most cumbersome couples of his rich portfolio of luxury brands. Leaving aside the financial technicalities regarding the re-positioning policy of Gucci with the rise of prices (+40% in 4-5 years), I want to focus this…

  • Fashion People

    Dior and I – A documentary on the real Raf Simons

    After the success of the film “The Last Emperor”, in which Matt Tyrnauer celebrated the withdrawal from the catwalks of Mr. Valentino Garavani in 2008, the fashion documentary has become a trendy movie genre worldwide, thanks to which also lay people can access the secrets of the most famous fashion designers. The long list of “filmed designers” includes Karl Lagerfeld, Yohji Yamamoto, Yves Saint Laurent, Donatella Versace and Frida Giannini, and from today we can add also Raf Simons thanks to Frédéric Tcheng‘s film “Dior and I“, which I had the pleasure to see at the Italian premiere during the…