New Talents

New Talents: San Andrès Milano – Fall Winter 2013/2014

February 7, 2013 - By 

2012 has been a challenging year for several emerging fashion designers, especially if we consider that special events such as WhoIsOnNext? or the Vogue Talents selection at Palazzo Morando acted as a springboard for them.

Andrés Caballero is one of those talented fashion designers. Born in 1981 in Mexico, he is the creative spirit behind the San Andrès Milano tailoring brand, whose strength lies in the rich cultural and training background which took him from Mexico City to the Marangoni School in Milan and then at the Paris American Academy in Paris, where he specialized in Haute Couture.
 
 
Andrès Caballero @Pitti Uomo 83
Andrès Caballero @Pitti Uomo 83
 

The first time we met at Palazzo Morando, I had the impression of being in front of a tailor from the past, in fact, as in the best tailoring tradition, just after the sketches, Andrès makes his dress by draping the fabric on the mannequin (moulage technique).
I still remember that I was struck by the white and turquoise pleated neo-classical dress on the clothes hanger, it looked like a contemporary peplos stolen from a greek sculpture.
 
 
San Andrès Milano - Spring Summer 2013
San Andrès Milano – Spring Summer 2013 at Palazzo Morando
 
 
We met again in January for the 83rd edition of Pitti Uomo in Florence, where he presented the first men’s capsule collection for Autumn Winter 2013/14.
The particular twill mohair wool of the coats caught my attention and that sandy color was a clear the reference to the rough textures used by the Mexican architect Luis Barragàn.
Andrès imagined the menswear line for a cosmopolitan man, who needs to be comfortable and stylish at the same time, wearing classic military-inspired coats with a special relaxed fit, or casual garments made with the finest tailoring details.
The accessories are one of the most important part of the collection, and in the last 6 years they conquered the Asian markets thanks to the excellence of the materials and the workmanship, entirely handcrafted near Milan.
 
 
San Andrès Milano - Men collection - Fall Winter 2013 - Luis Barragàn inspiration
San Andrès Milano – Men collection – Fall Winter 2013 – Luis Barragàn inspiration 
 
San Andrès Milano - Men collection - Fall Winter 2013
San Andrès Milano – Men collection – Fall Winter 2013 @Pitti Uomo 83 
San Andrès Milano - Accessory Men collection - Fall Winter 2013 @Pitti Uomo 83
San Andrès Milano – Accessory Men collection – Fall Winter 2013 @Pitti Uomo 83 
 
 
The neo-retro allure by Andrés Caballero, however, didn’t stop in Florence so long and at the end of January debuted at the Fashion Week in Rome with the San Andrès Milano Fall Winter 2013/2014 fashion show, which transformed the Santo Spirito in Sassia catwalk in a sort of lecture on the aesthetics of Luis Barragàn.
The warm and bright colors used by the Mexican architect for the walls became graphic compositions on minimal silhouettes; while the layers of crêpe wool, bouclé mohair or silk twill looked like the contrasting architectural textures of water/stone, wood/masonry, earth/concrete.
A tribute collection to a great Mexican master, in the name of the classic tailoring and Lombard craftsmanship, with an eye to the past and one in the future.
 
 
San Andrès Milano - Fall Winter 2013 - Luis Barragàn inspiration
San Andrès Milano – Fall Winter 2013 – Luis Barragàn inspiration  
 
San Andrès Milano - Fall Winter 2013 - Luis Barragàn inspiration
San Andrès Milano – Fall Winter 2013 – Luis Barragàn inspiration  
San Andrès Milano - Fall Winter 2013 - Luis Barragàn inspiration
San Andrès Milano – Fall Winter 2013 – Luis Barragàn inspiration  
San Andrès Milano - Fall Winter 2013 - Luis Barragàn inspiration
San Andrès Milano – Fall Winter 2013 – Luis Barragàn inspiration  
 
 
  
 
 
Bravo Andrès!
 
Alessandro Masetti – The Fashion Commentator

Italian architect into fashion. Art curator in love with books, flea markets and interior design.

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26 Comments on “New Talents: San Andrès Milano – Fall Winter 2013/2014”

  7. Ricordavo il suo nome tra i partecipanti di Who Is On Next?
    Molto interessante. Mi piace.
    Ma i collage con le architetture colorate sullo sfondo li hai fatti tu? Perché sono davvero bellissimi e valorizzano al massimo i capi.

    1. Ciao Alessia.
      Sì i collage li ho fatti io perché volevo si capissero i riferimenti e le ispirazioni. A volte le foto dicono molte più cose di tante parole, perciò meno testo e più spazio all’immagine…l’importante è che comunichi qualcosa! 😉

  12. Io sono felicissima per il successo che sta riscuotendo. La collezione uomo proposta a Pitti mi ha entusiasmato quanto quella femminile visionata a settembre e sono contenta che anche la sfilata di Alta Roma lo abbia consacrato ulteriormente.
    E’ un giovane promettente e non so onestamente cosa aspettarmi dalle sue collezioni future…riesce a sorprendermi di continuo!

    baci,
    G.
    Vuoi aiutare In Moda Veritas ad entrare a far parte della IT FAMILY di Grazia.it? Vota cliccando qui e poi sul cuoricino. Grazie mille <3
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  19. Ottimo lavoro Alessandro!
    Ottimo anche il messaggio che vuoi trasmettere ai tuoi lettori, spazio ai giovani, ai nuovi talenti e soprattutto ai meritevoli.
    Barbara

  22. P.s. Non c’entra nulla, ma al mio precedente commento volevo aggiungere caro Alessandro che ElectroMode ha avuto l’onore d’inserirti nella sua lista dei blog più amati, attribuendoti il Liebster Award e anche il ruolo di vicedirettore del nostro giornale ideale.

  23. Ammetto che sono spesso ignorante in materia e non conoscevo questo giovane promettente… ma me ne sono innamorata! La collezione uomo è bellissima e quella donna… ovviamente mi piace tantissimo!! Quel vestito color corallo è entrato nella mia lista dei desideri : )

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