My short trip to Milan for the last day of men’s fashion week, ended with the Vogue Experience at the Ermenegildo Zegna headquarters, where the editor in chief of Italian Vogue, Franca Sozzani, gave the opportunity to discover the Z Zegna Spring Summer 2014 collection and meet the designer Paul Surridge. Vogue Experience – Z Zegna SS 2014 backstage – Franca Sozzani, Paul Surridge
Men’s fashion is literally changing its course and the last Milan fashion week has been the proof of it. Just a few minutes after the sporty-inspired collection by Giorgio Armani, it was Ermanno Scervino‘s turn, the one who based his fashion career on the casual-chic concept, and who can be considered as the precursor of this new menswear revolution which wants a sporty, relaxed, but still elegant man.
Giorgio Armani Men’s Spring Summer 2014 – finale It’s been a long time since I was moved for a fashion show, but it’s incredible how Giorgio Armani has awakened my sleepy enthusiasm for fashion with the simple style of the SS 2014 menswear collection. His man doesn’t blind people with vibrant colors, he doesn’t impose his figure with oversized garments, he is not a rock star who screams his presence through studded leather and jewelry, and he isn’t a decadent dandy who travels the world on a cruise; the Armani man is the contemporary gentleman par excellence. Yes, because contemporary elegance…
Even for this June, Pitti Uomo, the largest trade fair in the world dedicated to menswear, has brought a burst of innovations in Florence along with designers, buyers, business men, journalists and fashion industry insiders pouring into the city to discover the trends of the next summer. According to the official attendance figures, the foreign buyers increased by 4.5% compared to the June edition of 2012. This has been a successful edition despite the various negative factors affecting the fashion industry, but leaving aside the numbers, for the first time I prefer to start my serial posts on the Florentine…
On June 15th and 16th, the giant of luxury LVMH has exceptionally opened laboratories, cellars, factories, historical boutique and showrooms to the public for the second edition of Les Journées Particulières. The two-days special event which show the places where LVMH dreams come true. Among the 40 opened venues in Europe, Saturday morning I had the pleasure of visiting the Bulgari accessory factory in Florence.
Yesterday Giorgio Armani announced that from the next edition of Milan Menswear Fashion Week (22-25 June) he will launch a special program to provide practical support for the Italian fashion system by hosting the shows of the most promising emerging Italian designers in his Armani Teatro. The first appointment will be the Spring Summer 2014 collection by Andrea Pompilio, the undisputed prince of men’s style in the last three editions of Pitti Uomo, who won the Who Is On Next? Vogue prize in 2011. Giorgio Armani – Andrea Pompilio
T-shirt: T shape garment made with the body and sleeves. It is normally associated with short sleeves, a round neck line, and no collar. Well, now cancel this definition and imagine a journey in Japan. Smell the cherry blossoms’ scent, let yourselves be enthralled by the colors of ukiyo-e prints and by the charm of origami which mimic the harmony of nature. Then, think to go in Italy, in one of the Neapolitan atelier that has marked the history of Italian tailoring, while you are touching the finest Italian fabrics ready to be assembled on the mannequin. Ok. That’s it!…
The inspirations for a fashion collection are the fruit of a perennial tension between past, present and future which inevitably involve other disciplines including art and design, and is just following a common passion for the latter, that Marta Saletti and Simona Cassai have launched their jewelery brand LedaOtto in January 2010.
Writing today the review of the Ermanno Scervino autumn winter 2013 collection, after almost three months from the show, it would be anachronistic; especially if we consider that the fashion industry’s paces are very similar to the speed of light, making look old even what is not in the store yet. But staring at the photos of the collection I couldn’t help but reflect on the “time factor”, or rather on “the past“, and its value in fashion. Ermanno Scervino – Fall Winter 2013 collection
On May 3rd, spring has arrived in Florence. No, there is no reference to the climate, but only to the creative ferment that has blossomed at Le Printemps – A Spring Liturgy, the event in which the FAST students (School of Fashion Accessory Studies and Technology) presented a sort of debate/meeting between their collections with those of three guest designers: Mazzanti piume, Florentine company specialized in producing handmade fashion creations with feathers since 1935; Jewelry Green, the jewelery brand of Clelia Stincheddu and Giulietta Piccioli; and Eleonora Bruno, a talented emerging hat designer.